Pyrenees GR11 & HRP

Day 1

We landed late Friday: Ryanair flight between Warsaw-Modlin 16:55 and Barcelona-El Prat 19:55 (200€ for return ticket). It was too late for taking a bus for next part of our trip. We decided to pick up a train to Zaragoza (29,6€). Before that it was needed to get to main Barcelona train station – Sants (4.1€). Zaragoza train was AVE fast line with average speed 230km/h and maximum 300km/h.  At 23:40 Zaragoza station was completely empty. We decided to reach main Zaragoza square and buy some beer (Plaza del Pilar-Murallas). Taxi back cost 10,54€.

Total distance: 315514 m
Max elevation: 593 m
Min elevation: 39 m
Total climbing: 2458 m
Total descent: -2298 m
Total Time: 06:25:48

Day 2

Train station guards woke us early – at 5:40. It was not allowed to sleep during open hours. Next bus to Sabiñánigo was at 6:40 (14,2€). Easy travel via Huesca. All of us slept during this ride. Last segment left: Sabiñánigo – Torla (4,75€)

Total distance: 177133 m
Max elevation: 1254 m
Min elevation: 199 m
Total climbing: 2395 m
Total descent: -1615 m
Total Time: 05:39:49
Download Trekking finally! GR11 started just at the beginning of unpaved road. Torla 4×4 tours offer effort-free sight seeing tours across Perdido edge. We had about 1200m to climb. Only one water supply in middle, very poor. We reached refugee just after sunset. Kazio only one guy who read guidebook warned us that we can camp only up to 9:00. Otherwise we will be fined.
Total distance: 19443 m
Max elevation: 2265 m
Min elevation: 936 m
Total climbing: 1632 m
Total descent: -440 m
Total Time: 09:41:34

Day 3

I woke up more less 8:20 and asked Szymon if we are going to pack tent soon. ‘No one will check us at 9:00. I’m sure that will be delay’. 9:20 Perdido Park Police took our ID’s and registered as ‘notice’. 2nd time we will be fined. So finally we packed all stuff and start Monte Perdido ascent. Big waterfall in middle helped us with water. Some trail parts were little bit more difficult – climbing grade three. I was forced to use hands more excessive – nothing extreme. Just under Lago Helado lake we left heavy backpacks and started final summit ascent. Quite slippy due to small stones and very soft ground. Weather was not so bad. Few clouds but we could admire whole valley. Descent to Valle de Pineta. This was little bit more hardcore. Few snowfields, small glacier and crevasse – this was not mistake, we did not get lost. Two spits for belay equipment and 10 meter high crevasse . One of us checked path without backpack. It was possible to climb down, just extra attention needed. Finally we reached Lago De Marbore.

Total distance: 9131 m
Max elevation: 3346 m
Min elevation: 2192 m
Total climbing: 1467 m
Total descent: -1116 m
Total Time: 07:43:34

Day 4

Beutifoul place for camp. Wild, only one tent around. No people and no police! There were more less 5 flat places for tent. Our plan was to reach Parzan via GR11. We had no idea that Circo de Pineta is so much impressing place. We stopped few times take pictures. No problem with water. Lot of streams and waterfalls around. Refugio de la Larri was quite abandoned place. We expected more sophisticated shelter. Next stop: Pico de Petramula. Once we reached flat area just beneath summit we found few marmot families.

Total distance: 13353 m
Max elevation: 2570 m
Min elevation: 1412 m
Total climbing: 1018 m
Total descent: -1624 m
Total Time: 08:43:47

Day 5

Every time someone moved in tent we heard Marmot sentinel warnings. Very easy trail – we could make it by compact car. Small break in Parzan. Quick replenishment and again gravel road up to Paso de’los Caballos. Wondering if i could ride there with motorcycle. Unfortunately we met one Park Guard Patrol. Maybe just waiting for “Adventure riders”. At the end – phantastic night just under Las Collas.

Total distance: 27488 m
Max elevation: 2313 m
Min elevation: 1121 m
Total climbing: 2120 m
Total descent: -2219 m
Total Time: 10:58:30

Day 6

If we get bact to this area we definitely try reach Posets Peak. Fantastic panorama made trekking very enjoyable up to Puerto de Auguas Tuertas pass. This was a place where we started HRP part. Again guide book gave us good tip – once you cross border weather become worse. So all the way thru Vallon d’Aygues-Tortes we walked thru dense fog. Shoes got completely wet. Moreover we missed beautiful view. It’s worth to choose upper level trail variant instead of bottom valley one. This route is very similar to Via Ferrata in Dolomites but no belay devices needed. Finally we reached Caillauas Refugee.

Total distance: 20705 m
Max elevation: 2670 m
Min elevation: 1508 m
Total climbing: 1663 m
Total descent: -1370 m
Total Time: 09:54:19

Day 7

Day started near Caillauas Lake with quite pretty sunny weather. We continued with HRP towards Glacier des Gourgs Blanes. It’s very short and easy glacier, at least during summer time. No crampons are needed. Few hours later we reached Refuge du Portillon which was well equipped place to take rest and spend night. Cause we are tent aided trekkers we continued trip nearby Pico Crabiolas up to Valle de Remune where we spent night. Very important note here. HRP around Ibon Blanc lake was totally destroyed by landslide. It was very hard to find pass even with 3rd party tracks and two different maps. It was hour long improvisation.

Total distance: 15775 m
Max elevation: 2955 m
Min elevation: 2100 m
Total climbing: 1725 m
Total descent: -1584 m
Total Time: 11:13:55

Day 8

Time to take a rest. We spent quite lot of time in Hotel Hospital de Benasque eating all shitty food we found. Pizza, beer, french chips. Best and unlimited food since one week. Few hours later it was very hard to find motivation for final day – Pico de Aneto summit. We did not take any bus, just walk up to Refugee De La Renclusa. De La Renclusa is well prepared place. You can find there dedicated lockers (without keys) and gear rental service (crampons and ice-axe’s). Unfortunately, we’re forced to rent whole set, you can’t take crampons only. Price is 12€/day and no Alpen Verrein discount accepted. (AV give you only discount for taking night at refugee). It’s allowed to pitch a tent just above refugee but only during night.

Total distance: 10077 m
Max elevation: 2240 m
Min elevation: 1737 m
Total climbing: 582 m
Total descent: -675 m
Total Time: 07:00:08

Day 9

Most of other people started at 6:00. We were obliged to pack tents before 7:00, so we decided to wake up at 6:40. Breakfast, packing, moving stuff to refugee took us about hour. We reached first snow after 3 hours and met there all people who started at 6:00. Big stones are very difficult to walk on them if you don’t force yourself to walk without hands help. Last 100m of ascent was quite steep. IMHO without crampons it’s really difficult to reach summit. Pico De Aneto has two summits. Route between them is very short and narrow. It is called “Brigde of Mohammed”, It requires from you a high altitude exposition resistance. Not everyone decided to go there. Moreover, single narrow track allows only for single way alternating traffic.

Total distance: 18112 m
Max elevation: 3380 m
Min elevation: 1644 m
Total climbing: 1490 m
Total descent: -1987 m
Total Time: 13:12:19

 Day 10

Traveling back to Barcelona. Bus costs below:

  • Hospital de Benasque - Benasque – 7,8€
  • Benasque – Barbastro – 8,7€
  • Barbastro – Barcelona-Sants – 14€

We found hostel at Placa de Sants. Average cost per person (we took two double rooms): 26,50€.

Total distance: 335425 m
Max elevation: 1649 m
Min elevation: 19 m
Total climbing: 2688 m
Total descent: -4292 m
Total Time: 11:41:07

Day 11

Flying back to Poland. Barcelona-Sants – Barcelona El Prat airport train cost: 2,15€

Costs summary

Flight from Warsaw-Modlin to Barcelona (Ryanair) 200€
Trains from Barcelona El Prat airport to Zaragoza 33,70€
Optional taxi for Zaragoza sight seeing 10,54€
Buses from Zaragoza to Torla 18,95€
Buses from Pyrenees to Barcelona-Sants 30,50€
Hostel at Placa de Sants 26,50€
Barcelona-Sants – Barcelona El Prat airport train 2,15€

YouTube movies


XR650R front 15T sprocket protector/guard

I decided to reduce torque in my Pig and mount 15T sprocket instead of OEM 14T.  Sprocket calculator says that moving from 14/48 to 15/48 will reduce torque by +7.1% and increase speed by +7.1%. What about sprocket diameter?

  1. r=\frac{14T}{2*\Pi}
  2. R=\frac{15T}{2*\Pi}

XR’s 520 chain we can find pitch size (one chain link length) equal to 5/8″ (15.875mm).


14T radius = 35.372 mm and 15T radius = 37.899. It makes 2.529 difference in radius.


OEM chain protector was to small for 15T sprocket (at least in my humble opinion). I got help with CAD drawing and payed whole 1.5$ for laser cut of 4mm thick plate.

Download DWG file

Customized over originalChain_guard_custom_over_oryginal

Original over customized


Freeplay distance between guard and chain


Paper thick distance between guard and clutch lever.


Final look after powder paintingChain_guard_final_look


XR650R Vapor Trail Tech assembly

 Component list

  1. Magnet- two magnet types: bolt and little magnetic disc. Only disk works for my XR650R
  2. Water Temp Sensor – 22 mm external diameter
  3. Water Temp Sensor clamps
  4. Power Lead/Ignition coil cable (both are same)
  5. Handlebar mounts
  6. Vapor
  7. Power Lead/Ignition coil cable (both are same)
  8. Magnet Sensor



Magnet mount

Set contains two magnets: bolt like and small break disc hole sized. You can find both mounted below (bolt first on right).



Magnet installation manual says to avoid in lining with magnet sensor

Do not mount so that the magnet passes the middle section of the sensor. Either
the sensor will not register at all; or the sensor will register twice, causing a
“double trigger” effect (computer displays twice the true speed.)

xr650r_vapor_trail_tech_inliningProblem is that non in line bolt doesn’t work at all. Only disk hole do.



Magnet sensor mount

Drilling screw hole for magnet sensor




Temperature sensor mount

Coolant temperature sensor should be connected between engine and thermostat. Remove rubber pipe.


Remember that engine connector goes inside pipe. Keep distance (ie 45 mm) to avoid conflict between sensor and engine connector.
xr650r_vapor_trail_tech_temp_sensor_4 xr650r_vapor_trail_tech_temp_sensor_5 xr650r_vapor_trail_tech_temp_sensor_6

And finally engine temp sensor mounted.xr650r_vapor_trail_tech_temp_sensor_7Coil sensor/Tachometer mount

Ignition Control Module (under seat) and Ignition Coil (under tank) are connected with two wire line: Green (Minus) and Black-Yellow (Plus). I soldered red Vapor cable with Black-Yellow coil cable.


For black Vapor i used connector. Everything tightened with coil’s minus bolt and original green wire.xr650r_vapor_trail_tech_ignition_coil_ground




Osmand – how to upload custom tile map

Once you generate your custom map using MOBAC (Mobile Atlas Creator) copy map to ……/osmand/tiles directory. You can use local phone memory or external sdcard memory. (NOTE: since Android 4.4 Osmand might have issue with sdcard access. In case of issues please use local phone storage)


Start Osmand and go to settings


Select plugins and enable Online map support. Don’t be deceived by “Online” label. This plugin will enable your offline map.


Go one level up to main settings and you will find new section called “Online maps”. Select “online and tile maps” (another plugin “master switch”). Select “Tile map source”. You should find your custom map listed here.


Now you can navigate over base map and find your customized area:


Depends how much tile layes has been downloaded (map below contains14 layes) you can zoom in for more detailed view.




Iceland maps


Pictures below are for comparison purposes only. I applied strong JPG compression and make some detailed titles unreadable. Each picture represents Reykjavik area

I was searching for good paper Iceland map. Yesterday i got chance to rewiew few.

Marco Polo 1:750 000

It’s my favorite graphic. But maybe i just got used to classic maps. ISBN: 9783829738620


Freytag & Berndt 1:500 000

Main advantage are petrol station marks. You can find here some other POI. ISBN 9783707913200. I can understand if someone dislike this color pattern. Another Freytag & Berndt map 1:400 000 represents same detail level. It’s only slightly larger.


Vegaatlas 1:200 000



Very detailed. Highest precision. Below legend with all supported marks. Everything described in four languages: Icelandic, English,  French and German. ISBN: 9789979672098 9789979672099




Tail seat bag overall look

Tail seat adventure bag by

I bought recently rear seat bag made by 21brothers ( Main site has limited description that’s why i decided to publish some more details here.

Product quality is very high. Lot of additional mounts and straps

Tail seat bag overall look
Tail seat bag overall look

Both ends has additional cordura like layers. You don’t need to afraid that bike fall will wear out bag.

Tail seat bag top
Tail seat bag top

Straps are stitched all the way

Tail seat bag side strap, and side strengthen surface
Tail seat bag side strap, and side strengthen surface

Central point has additional hooks. You can mount bag two ways. Either use hooks or main strap

Tail seat bag central straps and hooks
Tail seat bag central straps and hooks

At the bottom you have bottle pocket. Two ends, two pockets. Additional velcro strap protects bottle from fall.

Tail seat bag - additional bottle holder with velcro strap
Tail seat bag – additional bottle holder with velcro strap

All stitches seamed. This is back side of mount straps.

Tail seat bag - waterproof seams in details
Tail seat bag – waterproof seams in details

Strengthen seat part

Tail seat bag - internal look (waterproof seams)
Tail seat bag – internal look (waterproof seams)

Strong big tooth zip will survive highest loads. One drawback here. It’s not fully waterproof zip. It’s designed to hide behind flap (see bottom of picture). I’m not sure what is market availability for waterproof big tooth zips. Maybe it’s available only for smaller zip’s that’s why it’s not here.

Tail seat bag - main zip
Tail seat bag – main zip

XR650R Pannier system

Together with Pete we spent whole sunday creating pannier system for my Honda. I ordered base frames from Michał Merta ( Piotr welded everything together and build fantastic system.


Left down tube has been connected with side stand. We decided to make additional hook. This arm surrounds side stand plate. Screw keeps it on place, it’s not taking much pressure.

Another look of left tube

Right tube uses one side stand bolt. This is very thick flat (6mm) so angle should not change under pressure.

TKC 80 vs Heidenau K60

Below you can compare quite popular almost equivalent tyres:

  • Continental TKC 80 150/70 18”
  • Heidenau K60 140/80 18”
Direct tread comparison

TKC depth: 11mm

K60 depth

K60 depth: 11 mm

K60 depth

If you ever wonder how much your bike will go up with 140/80 insted 150/70, below you can find radius difference: 24mm. So rear wheel will go up 12mm after 150 -> 140 change.

Width difference between sizes

Things I never found in internet